Isaac wrote:Inside your old skins are the steel rings you'll need to mount new skins.
These skins are probably lifeless, indicated by the many years in a tightened state,
and the split on one makes it clear. You might as well get a new set.
Stock skins are available, cost more, and not as good sounding as custom skins you can
mount yourself or with a helper. I recommend cow or steer for a fiberglass set.
Soak the skins in a tub of water till they soften up and you can remove the
steel rings.
Good luck,
Isaac
Tumbas wrote:I would also take off the side plates, if you're going to use soap and water.. or either way you go.
You can do a more thorough job cleaning the shells. If a tiny bit of water or moisture were to get between the shell and the plates, there's a chance it may cause rust on the plates after long term.
That set is way worth the trouble.
Any fiberglass safe cleaner would do.
Also, mounting flat skins is not as hard as it seems.
Manito's skins are very good.
You're going to need to rings that the old skins are on and since you are not going to be refitting the one in tact, just cut them out with a box cutter blade.
Regarding the sizes for pre-mounted heads, they are pretty much standard for the series/line of drums you choose.
If the manufacturer says they will fit, they most likely will.
RitmoBoricua wrote:LP premounted stock heads will just work fine on those drums. Some people are biased against factory pre-mounted water buffalo
heads and to me is mainly matter of preference. Check this guy out playing a set of (4) conga drums with stock LP heads, and I think he
does not sound too bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6V8S8U9iLs Now rawhide heads are a bit expensive these days, Remo synthetic
heads are a bit more economical the problem is finding a Remo conga head that fits traditional crowns you may want to check if these heads
can do the trick http://remo.com/portal/products/3/12/83 ... metry.html As far as cleaning the finish on your drums you can go
to Walmart or an Auto Parts store and get a polisher like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/p ... -compound/
To clean the metal/hardware get a solvent like denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner, make sure when you work with these solvents you wear
chemical resistant gloves and safety goggles and do it in a well ventilated area, to me the best place is outside. Now is you do not want to deal with
these solvents I think rubbing alcohol can do the trick too. I hope this helps.
caballoballo wrote:Saludosa, water bison heads factory type are dull on sound projection. Manito will provide a set of superior skins like mule, steer etc etc .if you want volume then a set of Remo skindeep is the choice and are use by congueros down here.
It is easy to shine that chrome using aluminum foil by rubbing it, trust me.
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