Post 11 in a series of posts
I’ll be using a Minwax high gloss water based clear Acrylic for my purposes here, on this drum. ( pic 51) If you want to use a clear poly oil based, fine, just as good. Whatever you feel you can handle considering your skill level. I use them all , they all work well in compatible situations. The water based clear is pretty mistake proof for the beginner, and very strong as a top coat. That’s my recommendation here. Naturally, if you desire a different sheen, ( Semi-Gloss, Satin, Eggshell, Matte) they all go on the same way. Apply it with a clean brush. ( I’m using a 2” chip brush) When the varnish goes on it will appear milky blue in color, ( pic 52) it will flow out and turn clear when dry. Check each area you brush for hairs and sags, (especially around the holes). Go back and get these out immediately, check several times while the varnish is still wet. Clean the brush in the sink with hot water and put it aside lying flat to dry. Note: I’m using what is considered a very cheap white bristle brush. It is, but, they are very good little brushes. When they are new they have a tendency to shed a few hairs. Check your work for these and remove them when the varnish is wet and re-brush upwards.
Note to beginners: Put the varnish in a separate clean container, ( Like a plastic deli qt takeout container) and put in about an 1 ½” of varnish. DON’T work out of a full to the brim can,( like a numbskull) Dip the brush to the bottom and then tap it on the side of the container gently, it will now be properly loaded and will not drip all over when you move it to the drum. That’s a trade secret that is essential to using a brush. Learn it. I like to put the drum on a stand so I don’t have to bend or kneel. ( It’s also easier to see what you’re doing) Stroke from the bottom up. Not the other way around. Then go down the surface top to bottom, then finish BOTTOM to top one last time ( Going past the top of the edge) Make a concerted effort to get the coat as uniform as possible within reason of your ability. Do the whole drum that way, checking often for misses (unvarnished spots) as you go. Leave it alone. It will level out on it’s own. If you did miss, and the varnish is setting up, leave it alone. (You will have about 10 minutes to check the drum, depending on drying conditions.) It will disappear on the next coat. If, when doing this, you have to move the drum for any reason to another area, handle it from the edges only. The skin will cover any finger print and so will the bottom band. Regardless, DO NOT TO TOUCH THE BODY OF THE SHELL when it’s still wet!
4 coats. One in the morning, one in the evening times two. 4 coats are plenty. (It’s up to you if you want to do more, or scuff it down between coats with fine 3M sanding pad. Put at least 2 coats over the stain BEFORE scuff coating between coats to build the proper barrier between the stain). With a brush, 4 coats are good for most applications. Let it cure. The shell is Done for now.. Curing will take 2 weeks or more, but it will be dry enough to install the hardware the following day. let the finish CURE. Understand that it is technically STILL SOFT! Trust me on this. If you live in a hot climate, like Florida, etc. Don’t use this type of varnish in the sun. It dries way to fast. Use it in the shade or better yet in the garage. If you live up north, my advice is still the same. Indoors is probably better in both cases. Polyurethane varnish, thinned with mineral spirits (paint thinner) is also a perfectly good top coat, but requires 24 hrs between coats, and it smells. It is however, stronger overall, than water based varnish. IMO
THE LAST STEP
Now that I have 4 coats of topcoat on the shell and it’s dry, I will fine sand the shell BY HAND IN THE DIRECTION OF THE GRIAN. with a 3M fine scuff pad, in conjunction with a small piece of 320 grit sand paper. Allow a couple of days before doing this step, to assure the varnish is fairly hard. As you sand this with the 3M pad you will see fine little pimples, which will show up white.(pic 60) Take the 320 grit paper and sand these off gently. Do this until you are satisfied, and go back over it with the scuff pad. Repeat as much as necessary, making sure you do not cut through the top coats, and that the surface is a nice dull satin.. (That’s why we do 4) When the surface is totally smooth, dull and feels smooth, ( pic 61) you are ready for wax.
- Minwax high gloss water based varnish (pic-51)
- Applying the varnish ( It will appear Bluish in color when wet) (pic-52)
- Rubbing down with a 3M Fine Pad ( pic-60)
- Drum is pad sanded and ready for wax top coat (pic-61)