Split Repair: Stop that belt clamp from sliding - Rug Mate

[Thomas]

Oh, thanks Tony as well for your info, just saw your post, we must have been writing at the same time! So sandseal is what you're suggesting, sounds good.
Well there are so much different products out there, its so easy to get lost!
But thanks for your invaluable infos!!
Tom!

[Thomas]

Hi Bongos (you're all writing too fast!!),
I planned to fix the crack before varnishing... :laugh:

[taikonoatama]

>>Tom says:
>>On the pic you can see some darks spots on the inside, its resin coming out of the wood, those spots are all over on the inside. What do you think, is it a good or a bad sign? Or is it common on solid wood tubs?

I don't necessarily think it's a good or bad sign. I can see, of course, where there's a moisture-loss associated with this, but I'm not enough of an expert to say that it'd be significant enough to be an issue.

>>Tom says:
>>So you're suggesting some kind of maybe clear varnish on the inside as well as on the outside? Or will it affect the sound too much?

Excellent point, Tom, and one I've wondered about as well. How does a hard coating on the inside affect the sound? On first take, of course, it would seem to be problematic - you'd think the hard surface would cause the sound to bounce all over the place and lead to ringy-ness. And another question is the correlation between moisture sealing properties and sound wave penetration (how much sound gets through the sealant and the effect on various frequencies), and how much sealant thickness and type of sealant and wood affect this.

I'd love to know more about this. With this in mind, now I'm wondering if an oil might be better for the inside??? Jeez, so much to learn ...

~james



Edited By taikonoatama on 1183675853

[Whopbamboom]

See my comment in the "Gorilla Glue" thread...

http://www.congaplace.com/cgi-bin....;t=3101

I'm going to see if I can find a copy of that magazine on the stands tomorrow.

[blango]

I repaired a mahogany gon bops with three head to toe cracks.

I used Gorilla Glue.

Two weeks later the drum was violently smashed into five pieces (long story). However, none of the three gorilla glue repaired cracks split. I was impressed, for sure.

Is there a stronger expanding glue you can recommend for wood?

Ive seen others, but they say "less foaming action" and its the foaming that makes this glue so handy at fixing cracks.

Tony

[Whopbamboom]

Find a copy of that issue of Fine Woodworking magazine while it's still on the magazine stands and you'll get several glues that fared better than Gorilla. I think Gorilla was on bottom.

[buckoh]

Hi Y'all, here's a late reply to the split conga topic. When I repair any split on furniture, I try to get to it as soon as possible, before any more moisture can get to it. Once the seal coat (lacquer, varnish, etc.) is broken, moisture gets in and causes swelling which causes a mismatch of the cracked pieces. I've dried things with heat lamps, heat gun, sun exposure, wood stove, and more. You have to be diligent and observe what's going on. Sometimes they never match up. As far as clamping, I've never repaired a drum as bad a the one in the pics, but I wouldn't use too much pressure to close it. If you do, it will just crack somewhere else. Its hard to make wood do something it doesn't want to do. I wouldn't use Gorilla or any other polyurethane glue. There are no stronger glues than Titebond II or good epoxy. Epoxy will fill gaps up to about 1/8 inch(more with micro balloons) and still be strong. I would then install the biggest butterflies possible. This takes some woodworking skill & sharp tools but, anyone brave enough to take on a project like that drum in the pics should be able to do it. Then, of course, finish as needed. I have no comment on finishing inside and out. My DelCielos are finished on both surfaces, my stave congas aren't but, the insides seem to have the glue spread out.
Another suggestion for clamping would be to cut out thick, or glued up pieces of plywood squares that have holes large enough to match the circumference of the drum in several areas, and slide/tap them down the taper of the drum until they act as clamps. Again, don't use too much clamping pressure or the glue will squeeze out and you'll have joint failure.
Every problem probably have several solutions. Buck